Let us know how XIM Peel Bond (or any of XIM’s Products) have helped you!
We’re here to help if you have any questions for our XIM Team, Post your
questions here.
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Let us know how XIM Peel Bond (or any of XIM’s Products) have helped you!
We’re here to help if you have any questions for our XIM Team, Post your
questions here.
Hi, I have a question. What is the best product to use to paint my countertops in my kitchen? They are currently white and I’d like to make them a dark, charcoal grey. Obviously, I need something that is very scratch resistant. Thanks in advance!
We would recommend XIM’S UMA-this has great adhesion and you are able to apply any type of topcoat. Latex, Oil Alkyd Epoxy, Lacquer.
Sounds interesting – I will try this on my countertops
Thanks, I will let you know how it goes!
I’m new to this. I couldn’t figure how to get started-lol.
I recently picked up a quart of peelbond. I used it on one of our windowsills. It really worked pretty good-I couldn’t tell the difference after I painted over it! Thinking about re-doing the peaks of our home. Does anyone know how I could tell if the trim magic is what I would need instead of the peelbond?
Jamie, you saw how the Peel Bond ‘filled in’ when you used it on your window sills. Trim Magic is so think you must apply with a brush/pad, or roller – for very ‘weathered’ or very rough substrates. (You can not use in a sprayer) Please call our Technical Dept. at 800-262-8469 #120-we would be glad to help you further!
Can someone tell me how this product compares with Zinsser Peel Stop or Mad Dog Primer?
Both Mad Dog and Peel Stop are made to have good Adhesion. Only the Peel Bond is made to have good adhesion and be a high building, filling primer. The Peel Bond will fill and level rough surfaces and therefore reduce the amount of surface preparation required. Because of the high build and filling aspect, the job or project will have a better appearance.
I prefer Peel Bond tto Mad Dog but I havent tried Peel Stop
Hi, I have a question. What is the best product to use to paint my countertops in my kitchen? They are currently white and I’d like to make them a dark, charcoal grey. Obviously, I need something that is very scratch resistant. Thanks in advance!
If your counter is Formica, you can use UMA or 400 White as your primer. You can put any topcoat over the UMA, and most over the 400W.
Please call us at 800-262-8469 #120 with further information if needed
I want to refinish some aluminum picture frames that have gotten nicked and scratched. It sounds as if XIM UMA Tintable might be usable for this project. I assume I’ll have to sand off the raised bits of metal where they got gouged. Clean them with alcohol before sanding? What other kind of prep would be necessary before brushing with the UMA? I was wondering about using artist acrylic colors to tint the base but how opaque is it? Maybe I need to add white too? Thanks for any info and suggestions on this particular use.
Jan, The XIM UMA and the UMA Tintable are excellent bonding primers for aluminum or even anodized aluminum. You can smooth out any rough scratched area by using a fine grit sand paper made for sanding metal (silicon carbide media). Then blow off the sanding dust. Then wipe the aluminum surface with XIM’s GON cleaner or xylene solvent. We do not recommend alcohol as a cleaner because it does not attack all types of contamination.
You can put all types of paint finishes over the UMA once the UMA has dried for several hours. You can tint the UMA if you choose to. We recommend the universal tints. For other type of tinting colors you will have to test a small portion to check for compatibility. The UMA white can be tinted with up to 2 ounce of tint per gallon to achieve pastel colors. These colors will be quite opaque. The UMA Tintable can be tinted with up to 6 ounces of tint per gallon to achieve deep colors. These colors may not be as opaque. The UMA Tintable does reach dark color easilywith just a few ounces of color- just like a clear deep tone paint base.
Technical Service
I’m looking at using peel bond on an older house, probably from the 40’s. Contractors are scraping and washing. There are all types of surfaces to cover and I’m guessing it includes oil based paint. We went to purchase an alkyd primer and saw Peel Bond. Will this work over a mixture of surfaces? i.e. bare wood, latex and possibly oil base paint? What about weathered wood?
Another question it looks like you recently improved the product. X-Stay technology. Is this an improvement to the base product or another higher level version? Any advantages other than being able to put it on thicker?
Thanks so much. I thought I was going to have to live with crazing paint in some areas and now it looks like we might have a solution!
Sandi
Wow, Sandi, great questions. The XIM Peel Bond is designed for exactly the situation that you described. As a “bonding primer”, Peel Bond will bond to most all materials we run into on houses and buildings. It will bond to old paint (latex or alkyd or oil). It will bond to bare wood and old wood. As a “high build, filling primer”, Peel Bond can be applied thickly and will help fill in rough areas and cracks. I will level out to form a relatively smooth surface for painting.
Durability – it beats the older alkyd technology primers and yet is a latex product.
The surface to be primed just needs to be sound and free from contamination.
Make sure that the siding is well vented. It is easy to apply the Peel Bond very heavy and end up sealing the siding too well. The humidity and moisture from living in the house needs to be able to escape. That’s why siding is vented. Also remember that Peel Bond or any primer can not fix underlying moisture problems or boards that have rotted wood; those boards need to be replaced.
One of the biggest advantages of Peel Bond is its ability to be applied thickly. With the incorporation of the X-Stay Technology, the peel Bond can now be applied even more thickly if required.
Also remember that the law recently changed with respect to painting and repairing older homes ( pre 1978 ). The painters not have to be trained and certified in dealing with the potential of the presence of Lead based paint. Make sure they are following this recent new law.
XIM Team
A painting is never finished – it simply stops in interesting places. (Paul Gardner, arts writer)
Help! We have a house that is 55 years old and that has been in the family for that whole time (so I pretty much know the paint history). Only in the past 10 years has our interior paint started to peel. This has happened in four different rooms, with three different paints and three different painters (two were pros). But the paint isn’t peeling off paint layer from paint layer, but rather it is peeling all the way back to the original primer and/or plaster (not dry wall). We have also found out that the house across the street (built at the same time) is just now starting to have paint peel in the kitchen.
Some of this peeling started within a month or two after the last coat was put on. (We did have the painter come back and fix that, which we thought was done properly, but within a year and 1/2 of the fix it has started again.) Most of the peeling started a few years after painting (5 or more years). Except for one area on an outside wall, all the peeling areas are on the ceiling.
1) What is going on here??? If the original plaster was not primed, or not primed properly, why is it taking 50 years to show up? (The one area that we had fixed and is again peeling was primed and painted directly to the plaster, so I’m not sure it can be a problem of “too many coats/too heavy” paint.
2) What can we do to fix this? How do we know that any new coats aren’t just going to peel back off? Will any of your products bond any new paint, not only to the last coat of paint, but all the way through to the plaster?
Thanks so much for your help…Heidi
Heidi,
Interesting questions, but ones that do come up with older homes. First, let me make some general comments.
1. If the more recent interior paints have been applied directly over the old plaster and are failing, then the problems are not due to the paint alone.
2. If several different interior paints have been used and they all exhibit peeling problems, the problems are not due to the paint alone.
3. If there is peeling paint on the ceiling near an exterior wall of an older home, this generally indicates a moisture problem or water leak problem.
4. Generally, interior paint does not peel unless there is a substrate issue, since there is no “Harsh Weather” to stress the paint.
Other Comments:
1. You must look at the locations where the paint is peeling on the walls to try to get a feel for what might be a contributing cause for the peeling paint.
a. Is it high on the walls or low on the walls?
b. Is it near or around electrical outlets?
c. Does it appear to run in vertical or horizontal streaks?
d. Is it only on exterior walls or on all the walls?
e. Does it show a common pattern?
f. etc.
2. If you find a pattern-then seek the source of the surface problem; ie, water leaks, moisture over or around electrical boxes or moisture around radiators or vents. Keep in mind that older homes had much less or no insulation in the walls.
3. For those areas that continually peel back to the old plaster-consider
a. Scraping all old paint away
b. Sanding or roughing the surface
c. Measuring the alkalinity of the plaster (PH). If to high PH (over 12-12) must apply a fresh skim coat of a newer variety that doesn’t retain a high pH.
d. Apply a bonding primer or clear wall sealer that will “penetrate” into the plaster for a better “grip”.
Please call our Tech line 1-800-262-8469 #120
XIM Team
Just wanted to leave a quick comment-used your Peel Bond-then went and purchased some Trim Magic, could not find easily-so I called your ‘Customer Service’. The peaks of the house look great-I was really impressed-and would reccommend both of these products! It turned out great!